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Turismos: Narrativas Fictícias ou talvez não

O que é o turismo? De que falamos quando abordamos a palavra turismo?

abril 17, 2013

O que é o turismo? De que falamos quando abordamos a palavra turismo?

Das férias extraordinárias que passamos do outro lado do mundo num resort de luxo onde fomos reis por uns dias? Ali o sossego era total. Os empregados solícitos e simpáticos, discretos, silenciosos e atenciosos. O ar condicionado funcionava. A comida tinha desde panquecas, hambúrgueres, bifes, a sabores mais exóticos como o caril e especiarias em borrego. E até umas coisas que nunca me atrevi a provar. E umas saladas deliciosas. E frutos tropicais.Tantos que nem sei enumerá-los. Não faltavam os gelados e as bebidas. Uns cocktails imaginativos! Uns buffets que davam para alimentar o dobro dos turistas que lá estavam.

E as piscinas? Quase olímpicas, de água fria e quente. Banho turco, sauna, massagens, yoga, ayurvédrica e até pilatos. Uns jardins que me faziam lembrar as descrições da Babilônia. E à noite eram tão queridos! Danças do ventre, espectáculos das mil e uma noites, com cavalos e tudo! E milhões de pétalas de rosa derramadas graciosamente sobre nós. Até havia uma discoteca para os miúdos e um salão de baile para os graúdos.

Nem o secador faltava na casa de banho. Porque o ano passado não havia secador na outra estância. Tudo limpo, higiénico e belo. Toalhas e lençóis mudados todos os dias. Nós até pagamos uma taxa ecológica para proteger o ambiente. E que banhos de imersão de horas acompanhados de champanhe! Os miúdos estavam encantados, embora com 15 e 16 anos quisessem sair do resort e isso não era possível. Aliás escolhemo-lo porque tem uma segurança impecável com guardas armados. Já basta as saídas semanais dos miúdos que nunca sabemos bem por onde andam e o que fazem. Mais sair para quê? Aqui há tudo o que sonhamos e por 300 euros por pessoa por duas semanas! Até organizam umas visitas da população local às quintas feiras para venderem artesanato no átrio principal do hotel.

São tão genuínos! Tão primitivos! Tão limpinhos! E que roupas coloridas! São mesmo felizes! Que inveja!

De que falamos quando falamos de turismo?

Do trekking esforçado para além dos limites no Nepal e das vezes que nos apeteceu desistir, do desconforto e do prazer, dos objetivos atingidos?

A brochura dizia que era uma viagem de preparação física elevada. Quando falamos com o operador explicou-nos que exigia boa condição física por causa das muitas horas de marcha e da altitude. E até chamou a mulher para nos explicar melhor já que ela tinha feito a viagem várias vezes! Ora, uma mulher fez e é difícil? E uma mulher de meia-idade! Claro que vou fazer e o trilho mais difícil. Não consegui cumprir o programa do ginásio. Muitas noites de banco. Muitas urgências. E muitas outras coisas. Mas afinal é só caminhar. Não é como salvar vidas.

Se o Pedro tinha feito no ano passado e passava os dias agarrado ao computador e tinha tantas experiências interessantes para contar e que belas fotografias! Vou fazer mesmo. Foi uma viagem duríssima. Andar até desfalecer. Dores em lugares do corpo que não sabia existirem. Dormir numa tenda desconfortável. Comer comida intragável. Isso era o que mais me custava! Que saudades dumas batatas fritas!. E pagar 3000 euros por isto! E tanta bicharada! Já nem sei quantas vezes me faltou o ar e quantas vezes as dores no peito me fizeram temer pela minha sobrevivência. E as tonturas! Acho que andei quinze dias tonto, embriagado sem álcool, embriagado de oxigênio e esforço físico.

Maldita viagem! Bendita viagem! Que flexível o corpo ficou! Que musculatura! E tantas histórias para contar! O olhar invejoso dos colegas e a admiração dos subordinados. Foram pelos menos seis meses a contar as aventuras e a desfrutar da curiosidade e admiração dos outros. E uma coleção de seis mil fotografias e slides para apimentar os jantares com os amigos. Nunca tinha percebido quanta conversa pode render uma viagem.

Parece que o meu círculo de amigos e conhecidos está muito mais encantado com relatos de viagem do que com relatos de salvar vidas. Acho que para o ano vou fazer a da Gronelândia num caiaque solitário. Devem ser umas paisagens extraordinárias. E deve ser mais fácil viver com a solidão que com seis meses de ginásio. Mas antes vou passar umas belas férias no Nordeste brasileiro a torrar ao sol e a beber caipirinhas!

Digital Map, by Strike
Digital Map, by Strike

De que falamos quando falamos de turismo?

Da viagem solitária de seis meses fora dos trilhos batidos, da solidão, do esforço, das saudades de casa, do inesperado, do maravilhoso, do medo? Da viagem que os meus pais não me queriam deixar fazer e os pais do Paulo quase o obrigaram a fazer? Porque é perigoso ou é preciso aprender. Do nojo, do vómito, das camaratas sujas, dos trabalhos em cozinhas imundas para ganhar uns trocos irrisórios. Ou dos hostels de backpackers, autênticas estâncias de luxo, com banho quente e ar condicionado, dos trabalhos temporários como moço de recados em estâncias de sky.

Das ruas de Phenon Pen com as dezenas de televisões a passarem as séries que sempre vi e a venderem cerveja da minha terra a um décimo do preço. E as pedradas que me deixam atordoado durante três dias. Também é uma pedrada aquela subida à montanha, aquele abraço extraordinário de montes gigantes que me envolvem até ao infinito do horizonte. O Paulo diz que aprendeu. Cumpriu a profecia dos pais. Eu descobri que o mundo não é um lugar tão perigoso assim. Desconstrui a profecia dos meus pais. Aprendemos e crescemos. Não é o que esperam de nós? Aprendi a lavar louça, a estrelar um ovo, a fazer arroz, a lavar a minha roupa, a contar dinheiro e a dividi-lo pelos dias até à necessidade de outro trabalho para repor a contabilidade. E aprendi que a viagem tem um valor inestimável na relação com os outros. Também aprendi que sou um privilegiado. E que vou passar a dar valor às coisas que tenho e a partilhar. O Ocidente é rico e triste.

De que falamos quando falamos de turismo?

Das férias em família onde o tempo se estende, dura infinita e dolorosamente, e os dias se sucedem numa monotonia de rotinas que intimamente só desejamos que acabem? Rotinas a que nos obrigamos como simulacro da vida quotidiana, onde repentinamente o tempo que desejamos ansiosamente o ano inteiro se torna nosso inimigo, numa voragem de solicitações e obrigações familiares que nos deixam exaustos. Ou felizes. Hoje nadei com o meu filho. E falei com a minha filha. Comemos gelados e passeamos, sem relógio, sem ponto para picar. Foi um belo dia de férias.

Amanhã temos pais, sogros, irmãos, cunhados, sobrinhos, amigos e colegas. Um churrasco para organizar. Supermercado antes da praia. Onde está a lista? Apontamos tudo? E a peixaria, porque temos que ter peixe indígena, fresco, e carne claro, que é o que toda a gente gosta.

Da semana passada no Spa a águas e baixas calorias esculpindo o corpo para as transações quotidianas? Da correria por museus e sítios históricos à razão de uns cinco ou seis por dia para podermos dizer que estivemos lá? Ah, o Prado! Maravilhoso! A Mona lisa, um momento único, quando pensamos interiormente que decepção! Um quadrinho tão pequeno! Tanta gente à volta, tantos flashes, tanta segurança! Nem um momento de contemplação.

Ou Auschwitz e o silêncio das atrocidades. Que nos esforçamos por sentir na peregrinação a que nos obrigamos desde o último jantar entre amigos em que reprovadoramente éramos os únicos que não tínhamos visitado este marco turístico da memória contemporânea.

Turismo? E aquela viagem à América Latina ou à Ásia ou algures noutro sítio do mundo cheia de cores, de álcool, de sexo? Aqueles jovens adultos atrás das estrangeiras de meia idade, a troco do jantar, de uns copos e de uma gratificação? E aquelas jovens tão bonitas e disponíveis, tão doces e submissas encantadas com o turista ocidental. Que bela viagem!

Turismo? E aquela tribo Masai que fomos visitar num percurso que demorou horas, num jipe por estradas inexistentes. Que desconforto! Mas que experiência maravilhosa! Estavam todos os membros da tribo presentes. Como os imaginava! Elas e as crianças com os colares artesanais, as pinturas e as tangas e eles, os guerreiros, decorados com pinturas de guerra e com os artefatos de guerra! E que momento emocionante quando o guia nos disse que podíamos escolher diretamente do corpo dos indígenas os artefatos que queríamos comprar.

Emocionada, escolhi uma faca para oferecer ao meu marido e tirei-a diretamente do corpo do guerreiro. Que autêntico! E também um colar de uma criança, que me sorriu quando lho tirei do pescoço. Um belo colar. Um euro. A minha irmã vai adorar o presente. Todas as peças que adornavam os corpos dos Masai estavam para venda entre um e cinco euros. Mas havia uma que custava 30 euros. Era a espada do chefe da tribo. Comprei-a para o meu chefe. Pode ser que perceba finalmente que sou a pessoa indicada para gerir o departamento de relações internacionais da empresa.

No final, depois das compras, os Masai dançaram para nós. Que mundo autêntico. Que puros! Que genuínos! Que felizes que eles são! Que mundo verdadeiro que nós já não temos!

Quando a coluna dos jipes abandonou o acampamento Masai, o guia informou-nos que este tinha sido um dia feliz para os indígenas. Tinham vendido um total de 200 euros de artesanato a vinte visitantes. Porque nós não somos como as hordas de turistas que consomem tudo e não vêm nada. A nossa agência leva pequenos grupos para visitar e interagir com as populações locais. E ajudá-los. Duzentos euros. Imagine-se, tanto dinheiro. Adormeci no jipe, pensando num banho quente, num jantar de pizza e no ar condicionado no meio daquele calor infernal. Tão felizes que os Masai são! Vi o paraíso!

Até breve! Boas Viagens J

Escrito por Graça Joaquim

Sociologist. Professor of Sociology and Tourism Ethics and Social Responsibility in the School of Hospitality and Tourism of Estoril. Researcher at CIES-Iscte.IUL, Portugal

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